change gear manual motorcycle

Doing this smoothly takes a bit of practice, yet saves shifting time, and also slightly increases the lifetime of the clutch plates.This image is not licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website.Press down on the gear shift peg, then release it. Smoothly adjust the clutch and throttle together to match the speed that you are currently traveling.This is a very basic process, as all you have to do is throttle the engine and press down one click on the gear shift. First gear is always found by moving the gear shift down a notch, while the remaining gears can be reached by moving the gear shift upwards. To do this, use the same process of shifting into first gear. Throttle the engine and push the gear shift upwards with your toe. Pushing it one click will move it to 2nd gear, giving it another gear will move it to 3rd, and so on. To slow down and eventually come to a stop, you can downshift into lower gears by pushing down on the gear shift. Always put your bike in neutral when you are stopped. Some motorcycles have a sixth gear. While you’re still holding the clutch, shift into the next gear. Then, slowly release the clutch lever while twisting the throttle. If you are going to shift upward in gear, you'll get a feeling as if something is pulling the bike back; that is the time the gear is at its maximum potential.Just remember to pull the clutch in before you start the bike while in other gears (except neutral). Bring the gear all the way down to the first if you want to accelerate the bike after starting the bike.I have never been on one, but I'm interested in trying. For beginners, it's also good to get a lightweight bike in order to get some confidence riding. Also, it's recommended to not get a brand new one for the first year. Get a brand that is very common in your country, as it will be easier to have it maintained.

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By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy.Learn why people trust wikiHow This article has 55 testimonials from our readers, earning it our reader-approved status.This may seem like a challenge to master, but shifting gears is really a simple process. How you shift gears, however, will depend on whether your motorcycle has a manual transmission or a semi-automatic transmission.The clutch is located in front of the left handgrip. It is responsible for transferring torque from the engine to the transmission. The throttle located on the right hand grip.The gear shift is a bar located in front of the left foot pedal. It is responsible for switching between gears. Practice the following:This only works if you are in neutral or second gear, otherwise, pressing down the gear shift will only take you to a lower gear. The predominant gear pattern for manual motorcycles is one down, and four or five up. Neutral is found between first and second gear. Make sure that you are resting in the neutral position.Start by closing the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way. At the same time, move the gear shift into first gear by pushing downwards on the shifter. Then, slowly apply throttle while releasing the clutch gently until the motorcycle starts to roll slowly. After this point start increasing throttle input and release the clutch all the way. When you have achieved sufficient speed to justify shifting to a higher gear, roll off, (close) the throttle as you squeeze in the clutch. Place the toes of your left foot under the shift peg, lift the peg up as far as it will go. You can continue moving into higher gears by bumping the gear shift upwards more. One bump goes to second, another to third, another to fourth, and so on. NOTE: an experienced rider does not need to operate the clutch to shift up. He simply lifts the shifter lightly with his foot, and then, when he down-blips the throttle, the next higher gear will engage.

For tips on shifting gears on a semi-automatic transmission, read on! I am going to take the written test for car and cycle license tomorrow, so it was a good refresher course for me.I also loved seeing you actually ride the steps.By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. I am going to take the written test for car and cycle license tomorrow, so it was a good refresher course for me.Please help us continue to provide you with our trusted how-to guides and videos for free by whitelisting wikiHow on your ad blocker. If you really can’t stand to see another ad again, then please consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow. Practice is the key ingredient in mastering this task. The more you practice, the more muscle memory you build and the smoother your shifting will become. It disengages and engages the power from the engine to the rear wheel. Using your left hand to squeeze the clutch lever fully disengages the power from the engine to the rear wheel, preventing the motorcycle from moving forward regardless of how much you roll on the throttle. When locating the friction zone, we use minimal throttle roll-on. We’ll discuss the throttle in a moment. We use our left foot to change gears. The gear pattern is laid out with first gear at the very bottom, followed by neutral, first, second, third, fourth, fifth, and sometimes sixth gear. By sliding your left foot under the gear shift lever and lifting it upward, you shift to a higher gear. Each click equals one gear. And by the way, we are always in first when we stop, so we can get out of the way quickly in case a driver dozes off behind us and doesn’t stop in time. The throttle is located on the right end of the handlebar. Rotating your right wrist towards you increases the amount of gas you are feeding the engine (rolling on the throttle). Rotating your wrist away from you feeds less gas to the engine. Always start in a wrist flat position.

Or, if you have enough practice, you can brake and stay in the same gear, just be sure to hold down the clutch to prevent the bike from stalling and release it as you throttle after you cross the speedbreaker. Generally, you shouldn't need to shift gears for a speed breaker.Learn to operate all of the controls from muscle memory by “playing” with your motorcycle in a safe environment. You cannot go from first gear to fifth gear by just holding the shift peg up. It must be reset for each shift up, or down. Let it warm up first! Check your rear view mirror from time to time looking for people who don’t see you. Use a little rear brake to stabilize the bike. Using the rear brake at a high speed has very little effect. Sometimes, when a motorcycle stops moving, the “teeth” in the gears line up in a position that makes it impossible to downshift until you ease the clutch out. This means that the clutch must be used to disengage the transmission every time you want to start the motorcycle moving, every time you want stop the motorcycle, and every time you shift, or change gears. Have an escape route planned and glance in your rearview mirror from time to time while waiting on the green light. If something bad happens behind you, escape! If it is making a very low grumble, shift down. If it is whining loudly, shift up. Releasing the clutch quickly, while still in gear, will cause the vehicle to stall (at best) or leap forwards unexpectedly. This article has been viewed 1,403,583 times.Then, roll the throttle toward you to close it completely and press down on the gear shift with your foot. Slowly roll the throttle forward as you release the clutch until the bike begins to roll forward. When you're moving, continue rolling the clutch forward to go faster. Once you reach a high enough speed to switch gears, roll the throttle back and squeeze the clutch. To shift up, use your foot to pull the shift peg up as high as it will go, and to shift down, press down on the shift peg.

Once you get a feel for where and the how the clutch disengages, how much throttle is required for smooth acceleration, and how much effort the shifter needs, the whole process will become easier and require less concentration.Revving high is not required for most road riding conditions, and should generally be avoided, as should shifting so early that the engine can't produce enough power for adequate acceleration. Because engines deliver their most effective power at considerably different RPMs, you'll have to develop and use your instinct to decide when it's time to shift.If you're not pulling the clutch all the way, it might be harder to get into neutral. Look at the instrument panel for a neutral indicator light, which is usually green in color. If you're overshooting neutral and going into first gear (which is a very common problem ), use the edge of your boot so you don't apply too much pressure to the shifter. With enough practice, you'll get a feel for how to find neutral without even thinking about it.If you're lurching ahead during shifts, you might be applying too much throttle. And if your motorcycle slows down during shifts, you might not be revving the engine enough between gear changes, which will allow the engine to actually slow down the bike. Smooth shifting is all about paying attention to the way the clutch, the throttle, and the gear selector interact, and orchestrating the three with each other.Let's say you're cruising along at 50 mph in 5th gear and need to come to a complete stop: the proper way to slow down is to downshift as you decelerate, selecting a lower gear and letting out the clutch while feathering the throttle to match revs. Doing so will not only allow you to use engine braking to help slow down, it will enable you to accelerate again if a light changes or if traffic conditions change and a stop is no longer necessary.

This prevents you from grabbing a fist full of throttle. If you are not sure what “wrist flat “looks like, simply lay your arm on a table in front of you, palm facing down. Now clench your fist without lifting your wrist. This is a “wrist flat” position. Then repeat the process to shift to another gear. Find a safe environment away from traffic and obstacles with plenty of open space (preferably paved). If you accelerate too abruptly, or you are just not comfortable with your practice, squeeze and hold the clutch lever completely to disengage the power from the engine to the rear wheel. Follow this up by using your right thumb to activate the engine cutoff switch. It will let you know when it is time to shift. If it is screaming, you waited too long before you shifted to a higher gear. If it feels like it is choking, you waited too long before down-shifting to a lower gear. Take a class, practice, and stay safe out there. The task adds a layer of complexity for those already familiar with how to drive a manual transmission car and can be especially daunting for new riders who have zero experience with a manual transmission. But have no fear: shifting a bike can be easily mastered with practice and is much simpler than it looks.The throttle revs the engine, the clutch engages and disengages the transmission, and the gear selector, of course, selects the gear. Pull the clutch towards you using your left hand, and you can rev the engine without moving the bike forward.Know your controls inside and out, and get a feel for how they work. Practice riding in an environment like an abandoned parking lot, so you don't have to deal with traffic or other distractions. And most importantly, stay safe and aware during the learning process so you're able to focus all of your attention on the task at hand.

We only recommend products we love, period. Get all the best motorcycle news, reviews and deals delivered to your inbox weekly. By continuing to use this site you agree to these cookies. Learn More. Okay, thanks. By pulling the clutch, you are releasing the bike’s engine from its transmission, putting a bike in the neutral (N) mode and be ready to shift gears. When you are driving, you first pull in a clutch with the left hand in order to shift gears and to disengage its rear wheel. Meanwhile, reduce its throttle to prevent your motorbike from jerking because you may have to re-engage its rear wheel. Next, continue your task by using a left foot to shift gears. Do not forget to feather its throttle with a right hand. This will help you much in keeping the bike’s transmission smooth. First step is to pull the clutch all the way in and shift gear down to 1st by your left foot and then release the clutch slowly until the bike moves and then accelerate gently. As the motorcycle increases speed, continue to ease the clutch lever out smoothly and slowly. Most motorcycles operate in a “1 down, 3 up” shifting pattern. Let the clutch out and engage the throttle again. Repeat this process to shift through higher gears. Next, you should use the rear and front brakes slowly. Remember to use the left foot as it can steady your motorbike at the stop while keeping the right foot directly on the ground. If you fail to do so, your motorbike’s engine will be easy to stop working. When you are used to them, the feeling of mastering these uncontrollable horses is a delusion. Whenever sitting up, you just want to surf. All you need to do is master the clutch lever. Or the bike is moving slowly as you forget to pull the clutch in, that stall the bike. And you’ll be in for a bit of a surprise if you still put the 1st or 2nd gear and release the clutch completely. The same, when you start the bike, always remember the bike is in Neutral position.

Ideally, you’ll have your clutch lever pulled in all the way as you brake to a complete stop, which will allow you to downshift seamlessly. However, there are still someone who never been on a manual motorbikes wanna learn to ride it and join the tour with the friends. Here are some tips for the beginners on how to ride a manual motorbikes. Reading these tips before being on the real bikes must be helpful and help to make the beginners more confident. The handbrake, which applies the brakes to the front wheel, is the lever on the right handlebar. Grab the left handlebar, and swing your right leg over the seat. Plant your feet firmly on the ground. Grip the handlebars, clutch lever and brake lever. Make sure you can reach these controls comfortably. Your arms should have a slight bend in the elbow when gripping the handlebars. Switches should be within easy reach of your fingers. Get a feel for the weight of the bike underneath you. Additionally, you should be able to operate the rear shifter without lifting or sliding foot off the peg When you pull the clutch in, you’re releasing the engine from the transmission. This action puts your bike in neutral, allowing you to shift gears. Unlike an “On-Off” switch, you want to gradually and smoothly pull and release the clutch to prevent your bike from stalling. You may have to push down several times. You’ll know you’re in 1st when you don’t feel any more resistance or indication the gears are moving. The pattern is typically 1st gear, neutral, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, and so on. When shifting gears you will see the appropriate number light up on your gauge. As you pull the clutch, reduce the throttle. Reducing the throttle will prevent your bike from jerking as you re-engage the rear wheel. Continue by shifting gears with your left foot. Feather the throttle with your right hand to keep the transmission smooth. Finally, release the clutch, engaging the rear tire.

If you come to a complete stop, it's best to shift into neutral, hold the brake, and only shift into 1st gear just before you're ready to go.Staying stationary when traffic accelerates around you is dangerous, so you'll want to pull the clutch, start up the bike, shift into first, and get moving as soon as possible.Though this may not be the smoothest way to ride, doing so can sometimes save gas if it's done efficiently. This means the lowest gear is 1st, then neutral is a half click up between 1st and 2nd (basically up or down, N or neutral is always between 1st and second gear with one exception which I’ll touch on at the end of this article. Please see my previous guide for more details on the shift types. That’s a really easy way to remember on when to shift and that’s my basic rule of sound. Optimally you will have a good throttle response while the clutch is disengaged, but the engine is not screaming at you at what they call red-line. It’s where you’ve hit the engine limit of rotation speed and it bounces off something called a limiter so your engine doesn’t exceed its capabilities and drastically reduce its lifespan. You can start off in higher gears, but you need substantially that much more throttle to encourage some form of acceleration. So it’s back to my basic rule of sound and shifting down more times than the number of gears in order to know you’re back in first gear. You should have shoes that are proper motorcycle shoes both for safety (I’m a huge believer in ATGATT or All The Gear All The Time ), and they are designed so that you should be able to feel the shift lever. About 90% of the time from observing, that ends up being the problem if they are having any at all with shifting. I emphasize slowly because of the tendency of newer riders to just let the lever go suddenly (most of the time from the fatigue of muscles that haven’t been used in a while or never) instead of easing into the change.

That’s the sequence of movements to complete your shift. Now, can you see why I say looking at the gauge cluster is irrelevant at first? What is happening while you are doing all these movements. In other words, the part the rotates from the pistons going up and down that connects to different gears to translate that rotation power to the rear wheel. This moves around a part that attaches the gears in the engine to the differential, such as parts that contain the chain, belts or drive shaft that transfers power to the rear wheel. It’s like if you were to put your hands together and interlace your fingers, your fingers would act like the “dogs”. Basically, the gears are moving but there’s nothing to connect them. This will lessen the chance of gear damage as they’re synching into a slower rotation. So if you accidentally release the clutch too fast, it’s more forgiving although keep in mind that can also mean a lot of sudden power to the rear and a whole lot of change in dynamics (such as a wheelie or where your front tire comes off the ground). Get as good as the pro’s with your basics and then train from there. This is where your clutch control is really important and more so, to be smooth and controlled when releasing the clutch lever. Please see my article for the brief bit on traction changes and how that affects your ride. This will help to smooth out the transition from a higher to a lower gear and smooth the connection between the engine and rear tire. Get all the best motorcycle news, reviews and deals delivered to your inbox weekly. Not sure where to start. At BestBeginnerMotorcycles we are focused on providing new riders with all the information they need to get into the motorcycle lifestyle. From choosing the right motorcycle and learning to ride to guides and reviews of the top beginner motorcycles and amazing products on the market, we cover it all. Please note that we never ever recommend a product because of how much commission we make.

As you let the clutch out and slowly roll the throttle back to pick up a little speed, continue riding in a straight line. When you are ready to stop, pull in the clutch lever, and slowly apply the front and rear brakes simultaneously. Use your left foot to steady the bike at a stop. When you are stopped, put your right foot on the ground. The friction zone is the area of resistance created as the clutch becomes engaged. This area allows for the transfer of power from the engine to the rear wheel. Motorcycle transmissions are sequential, meaning that you have to shift one gear in a consecutive order, whether shifting up or down. It will take some practice to be able to feel and hear when it’s time to shift. The engine will start revving at higher rpms when it’s time to shift. You’ll know you’re in 1st gear when the shift pedal doesn’t click down anymore. You should hear a bit of a clicking noise when in 1st. When you want to start moving faster, pull back on the throttle slightly as you let out the clutch. Check to make sure your neutral light is not on. Repeat this process to shift through higher gears. Pull your clutch in and press down on your shifter. Then let out your clutch. Then, once at a stop, shift down again into 1st. As a general rule, you want to begin braking with your front brake and employ your rear brake after to help you slow and stop. You don’t always need to go all the way into 1st gear. You can downshift into 2nd gear and stop before shifting down to 1st. Make sure you aren’t pulling back on the throttle. This is made easy by the fact that the front brake handle is situated so that you have to roll your hand forward to reach it. Start with your left foot, then your right. SGI is not responsible for any errors or omissions as a result of the translation. In case of a difference in interpretation between the translated version and the laws and regulations governing Saskatchewan drivers and vehicles, the laws and regulations prevail.

Sloppy shifting can cause crashes when downshifting, turning or starting on hills. On most bikes, neutral is located between first and second gear. Always start and shut off your bike in neutral. When starting off from a standstill, you must shift the transmission up through the gears so that the engine is able to maintain the motorcycle’s road speed without turning too fast. Your motorcycle owner’s manual has information on the range of engine speeds at which the motorcycle was designed to be operated. The proper gear will also permit the engine to provide sufficient power for the bike to accelerate if necessary. When slowing down in traffic, or for road conditions, you must shift down through the gears until an appropriate match is obtained between engine and road speed. Remember to shift up when the engine is turning too fast for the road speed and to shift down when the engine is turning too slowly. You must open the throttle slightly to increase engine speed as you shift down with the clutch pulled in. If you don’t apply enough throttle, the bike will lurch when you release the clutch. Shifting down without having the engine speed up enough to match its speed with the motorcycle’s speed may cause the rear wheel to skid. Shifting in a turn If downshifting is required, ensure it is done prior to the turn. Do not upshift in a turn unless you can do it very smoothly. A sudden change in power to the rear wheel can cause it to lock or lose traction. The result can be a skid. It is best to change gears before entering a turn. Starting on a hill It is more difficult to get the motorcycle moving on an upgrade than it is on flat ground. There is always a danger of rolling backward into someone behind you. Here is what you have to do: Use the front brake to hold the motorcycle while you start the engine and shift into first gear. Change to the foot brake to hold the cycle while you operate the throttle with your right hand. Open the throttle a little bit for more power.

Release the clutch gradually. Release the foot brake when the engine begins to take hold. Disclaimer Google Translate is a third-party tool, and is not owned or administered by SGI. In case of a difference in interpretation between the translated version and the laws and regulations governing Saskatchewan drivers and vehicles, the laws and regulations prevail. Rev: 2019 Previous page Next page On this page: Related items: Connect Feedback Contact us SGI CANADA Sask 2260 - 11th Ave. Ask us a question or share a concern. Our goal is to get you the answer you need. Complete feedback form Were you satisfied. Understanding your experience with us is important. Help us make things better. If you drive a car with a manual transmission, the process is similar. Here is a quick lesson on shifting, starting with the control layout: The throttle is the grip on the right side of the handlebar; rotating it backward will increase the throttle, while rotating it toward the front will decrease the throttle. The shift lever is located in front of the left footrest. Pushing the shift lever completely down will select first gear. Half a click up from there is neutral and a full click up is second. Squeeze the clutch lever and put the bike into neutral. Start the engine, and while squeezing the clutch, push the shift lever into first. This is the engagement point. To start riding in first gear, keep releasing the clutch slowly while adding throttle in a similar, gradual manner. Releasing the clutch too fast can cause the engine to lug or stall, while adding too much throttle can cause the rear wheel to spin. Determining when to shift will vary on the bike, road conditions and travel speed. While most bikes are happy shifting at 5,000 to 7,000 RPMs, it is best to judge by the sound and feel of the engine. As you move faster, its pitch will increase. When the pitch is high, it is time to shift.

If you shift too soon, you will hear the engine struggle, which will help you learn the correct shift points. Then, slowly add throttle while releasing the clutch lever for a smooth shift. To switch into a lower gear, release the throttle, squeeze the clutch and push the shift lever down. Then increase the throttle to raise the engine speed, and slowly release the clutch. When downshifting, the idea is to temporarily raise the engine speed to match the bottom of the higher gear, before allowing it to slow down, smoothing the transition and preventing rear wheel lockup. For more information on our courses, contact us at 888-218-0744 today. Relevant discussion may be found on the talk page. Please help improve this article by introducing citations to additional sources.They may also be found in use on other light vehicles such as motor tricycles and quadbikes, go-karts offroad buggies, auto rickshaws, mowers and other utility vehicles, microcars, and even some superlight racing cars.Most modern motorcycles (except scooters) change gears (of which they increasingly have five or six) by foot lever.In some cases, including the Honda Gold Wing and BMW K1200LT, this is not really a reverse gear, but a feature of the starter motor which when reversed, performs the same function. To avoid accidental operation, reverse is often engaged using an entirely separate control switch - e.g. a pull-toggle at the head of the fuel tank - when the main gearshift is in neutral.British and many other motorcycles after World War II used a lever on the right (with brake on the left), but today gear-changing is standardised on a foot-operated lever to the left.Modern scooters were often fitted with a throttle-controlled continuously variable transmission, thus earning the term twist-and-go.This type of transmission system is known as a semi-automatic transmission.

Whether wet (rotating in engine oil) or dry, the plates are squeezed together by springs, causing friction build up between the plates until they rotate as a single unit, driving the transmission directly. A lever on the handlebar exploits mechanical advantage through a cable or hydraulic arrangement to release the clutch spring(s), allowing the engine to freewheel with respect to the transmission.As the throttle is opened and engine speed rises, counterweights attached to movable inner friction surfaces (connected to the engine shaft) within the clutch assembly are thrown gradually further outwards, until they start to make contact with the inside of the outer housing (connected to the gearbox shaft) and transmit an increasing amount of engine power. This allows relatively fast full-throttle takeoffs (with the clutch adjusted so the engine will be turning near its maximum-torque rpm) without the engine slowing or bogging down, as well as more relaxed starts and low-speed maneuvers at lower throttle settings and RPMs.In a typical CVT, the gear ratio will be chosen so the engine can reach and maintain its maximum-power speed as soon as possible (or at least, when at full throttle, in a partially load-dependent system), but in a semi-auto, the rider is responsible for this choice, and they can ride around all day in top gear (or first) if they so prefer. Also, when the engine is turning fast enough to lock the clutch, it will stay fully engaged until the RPMs fall below that critical point again, even if the throttle is fully released. Below the lock-up point, partially or fully releasing the throttle can lead to the RPM falling off rapidly, thanks to the feedback loop of lower engine speed meaning less friction pressure.