change manual transmission fluid mazda 3

It’s just about time. Mazda says to do it every 30K on mine which I think IMO is overkill. Is that ok? I also didn’t drain it level, just on one jack stand. So there’s probably more than 2 quarts in it This website intended solely to provide general guidance on matters All products. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log in sign up User account menu 8 Manual Transmission fluid Change on a 2015 s GT The service manual gives no recommended interval change on this fluid but I talked to a service rep and he felt that 60k miles is a good time to do it. In addition I wanted to change to a different fluid and learn how to do this myself so I had more than enough reasons to go ahead and try. I followed this guide from Revlimiter.com which had all the information you would need. I did a lot of reading on what fluid to use. There is not much info for the Mazda3 but plenty for the MX-5 and the speed3. Owners seemed to be torn between 2 oils: Ford Motorcraft and Redline MT. I decided to go with the Ford Motorcraft after spending a few hours reading forums. I think both would be excellent choices though. I purchased 3 quarts on Amazon. I checked in my copy of the gen3 Factory Service Repair manual to make sure I was familiar with what I was about to do and that I knew the exact torque specs on the plugs and how much fluid I needed. The car requires 1.8Q but I figured having the extra would be best in case I spilled or anything else went wrong. I ended up never opening the 3rd so I will save it for next time. I also bought this hand pump on amazon as well to get new fluid into the transmission. If you decide to do this yourself, having the right tools is key. It took me maybe 1.5 hours to complete the job.

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This time it’s the manual transmission fluid and the differential fluid. They are one in the same. Mazda calls this a “lifetime fluid” and never calls for it to be changed out. In my humble opinion, that’s not good. Nor is it right. So here’s how you change it. Redline MT-90. It is a 75w90 GL-4 gear oil. That satisfies Mazda’s requirements perfectly. I’ve used it in my Miatas for 10 years and have always been happy with it. When I saw the oil spec was the same on the 3 as on the Miata, I didn’t even question which fluid to buy. And, perhaps most important, a fluid pump. You’ll also need the car to be level. I’d suggest 4 of the strongest jack stands you can find. I love my ESCO stands. You can read about them in my Mega Jack Stand Review. Don’t forget to give the car a good shake after you get it up on the stands. Better to find a wobbly stand when you’re beside the car rather than when you’re under it. It’s the big, shiny metal housing. My wrench is on the fill plug facing toward the front of the car. Always remove the fill plug before removing the drain plug.This was the best one of the batch. It is the only plug on the bottom of the engine that looks like this and is 23mm. The fluid drains much faster this way. Feel free to be as thorough as you like. I let mine drain for a good 20 minutes. Neither were very tight from the factory and my car is still fairly new. I will change the washers out when I do the fluid again in 30,000 miles. It fits a Redline bottle perfectly and goes through a bottle pretty quick. But to each their own. As I said above, you’ll need a little more than 3 quarts. I just pump until fluid starts to come out of the fill hole. And in case you missed it above, the transmission fluid is also your differential fluid. You just changed both. Congratulations! Thanks for sharing the info. Put in 3 qts fresh 75w90. Why is this not manufacturer recommended maintenance? I wonder if it’s still in the case as sludge? You do it on most cars every 30k.

When you said tranny was full and it over flowed through the drain pipe, does it meant to be filled to the brim. I'm a noob when it comes to tranny and diff stuff. The drain plug is already sealed up and you can tell when it's full when it just overflows out the fill hole. Here is a pic of how that works The fill pipe is over the fluid level and on the side of the transmission while the drain pipe is directly on the bottom. I did my change around 30k since I drive my car pretty hard. I noticed peppier shifts afterwards. I recommend you do it, it's an easy and cheap step to prolonging the life of your transmission. I'm not a believer in lifetime transmission fluid, I think it really means lifetime of the warranty fluid. Just so you know, the dipstick is a pain in the ass as you're suppose to measure the level at a warm temp, I measured how much I took out and refilled that same amount which was exactly the manual specified amount.It's theoretically a lifetime fluid so you should never have to change it but take that as you will. I felt that 60k miles was a good time for me to do it. I replace my fluid every clutch job. The only difference is if I have a transaxle with an lsd. You won't hurt anything by changing it. The answer is always Miata but sometimes you have to haul more than two people and a purse. All rights reserved Back to top. That’s why many may be wondering the following question: do you need to change the transmission fluid in a Mazda. If you’re asking the same thing, we’ll explain what you need to know. Well, there’s a good chance the answer is “never.” That said, if you’ve already done some inspecting and have noticed the fluid is dark, dirty or smells bad, it’s a good idea to schedule an appointment to have it inspected. Don’t forget to check back to the Mazda of Lodi blog for more about life with your Mazda. Pinging is currently not allowed.I just read your article and our vehicle is skyactiv technology. You mentioned lifetime fluid being used.

First jack the car up and level it on jack stands, next remove the splash shield (this fastener remover came in handy ), next I had to run to the store to get a 23mm socket to remove this drain and fill plug (handy to have a 2nd car in case you need a tool or something mid job). Note: Make sure you are removing the fill plug before the drain plug. In the event you can't get the fill plug off you can stop and still have fluid in your transmission. If you've already drained it you are screwed. The fluid I drained out was dark brown and smelled awful. I did two pumps of new fluid in the tranny and then it ran out clear. I torqued up the drain plug and began filling with new fluid. The tranny was full when I finished the 2nd bottle and it just overflowed out the fill pipe. Here is a diagram of the recommended fill level. I then torqued the fill plug to about 50 N.m to seal it all up. I did re-use the aluminum crush washers but will likely replace these at 120k when I do this again. Re-install the splash shield, make some notes in my maintenance log app and I was done. After taking it for a ride I will say I don't notice much different. The gear shifter feels a tad smoother going into and out of gear. I didn't take too many pictures along the way but I do have this one of me pumping new fluid into the transmission. I wanted to share this to anyone else considering doing this yourself. It was just as easy as an oil change. Maybe just marginally though. I wouldn't do this if you expect a huge change in shift feel but the stick seems to slip into and out of gear with just a bit more smoothness. Totally worth doing in my opinion. The normal stickiness I get when coasting along in 1st gear (low end torque or whatever it was) is completely gone. I can now coast down to nearly a stop in 1st gear without the car jerking around when it gets too slow. Very happy with this. Ill place this to our wiki tonight. But one question.

If you wait until the oil is black and burnt or there is a mechanical failure, it’s too late and your transmission is already dying. You need to change it regularly to prevent sludge from killing your tranny. It always means one of two things: The customer has to buy a new car (hopefully a Mazda from the dealer) or the customer has to pay for a new transmission and a hefty repair bill. While changing the oil, I decided to check the transmission fluid. The service manual states that the fluid should be clear with a blue tint. My fluid was definitely not clear. It was brown with about a 30% shade. It’s time for it to be changed. I’ll be soft-flushing it—only about 50% of the ATF oil is hanged with a drain, so you fill it, drive around a bit, drain again and fill, drive around a bit and do it once more. DO NOT let the dealer flush your transmission. They will use a vacuum pump and the pressure it creates can damage the delicate mechanicals of the transmission. Even if you have a service plan, you should be changing the ATF oil yourself, or taking it to a non-dealer mechanic to have them do so. Changing the oil will force then to recirculate and choke passageways which will kill the transmission in a short amount of time. When I have to change the transmission fluid? My mechanic says probably no but he doesn’t seem to be 100% sure on the issue. Lifetime of the warranty.Also, should it even be changed, so many different comments, not sure and no I don’t have a drivers manual. My last service at 40,000 miles the Mazda service department recommends a transmission flush at 50,000 miles. The owners manual maintenance scheduler makes no mention of the transmission. Mazda online site says for Skyactiv vehicles, the transmission does not need service unless there is a failure of some sort. I’m leaning towards accepting Mazda’s recommendation because why would they recommend an action that will cost their dealers money. I mean Mazda built the vehicle and they should know.

Our Mazda was built in Japan and I am wondering if it would make any difference. Also, if it really needs to be done. I ve had a couple bad experiences where we had car trans serviced and shortly after the trans went bad. Thanks, Larry I would not flush. Just have it extracted through the dipstick, and replace that amount. Drive it around a week and do it again. Repeat the process every 50-60K miles. It is hooked up to a compressor. I live in Zambia and the only brands we have around here are Castrol transmission fluids Do I need to change my transmission oil now? LMK. Thank you! I have a 2014 Skyactiv 3 sGT and at 40k my dealer inspected and recommended a drain and replace (never a flush!). I looked at the fluid and it was darK and definitely not encouraging to think this is advertised as “lifetime” fluid. I asked my mechanic about that “lifetime fluid” thing and he laughed. Then he showed me an actual Mazda service document that showed transmission fluid SHOULD be drained and replaced every 50k in a Skyactiv vehicle. So Mazda says one thing in its marketing materials and you repeat that marketing line in this post, but I have seen a service manual advisory saying otherwise, and my dealer mechanic says you’d be nuts not to replace the fluid for 100k miles or more. “Lifetime” for Mazda appears to mean “lifetime of your powertrain warranty.” REPLACE YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID EVERY 50k people. A new automatic transmission is gonna run you at least three grand. Don’t listen to Mazda nor any other manufacturer about not changing “lifetime” transmission fluid. This is what car manufactures consider to be the maximum lifetime of a car before someone trades it in. However, this does not mean you should change it every 100K miles. You should change it every 30K-50K miles (and change the transmission filter every other change) as PREVENTATIVE maintenance.

Unfortunately, you may not hear any noises or have other clues that your transmission is low on fluid, until it's too late. So it's important to get it checked. A few thoughtful manufacturers have included a dipstick, but that's the exception rather than the rule. If you own a car with a manual transmission, we suggest that you ask your mechanic to check the fluid level when your car is up on the lift during an oil change. It takes just a minute. Be careful not to make the common mistake of confusing the transmission dipstick with the crankcase dipstick. We suggest that you check your owner's manual, however, since some manufacturers may have a different procedure. So if you're low on transmission fluid, you almost certainly have a leak. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Back story on the request is that when I had the transmission replaced after going out at 90,000 (seems to be a old story now with 2004 3's), the shop that did the replacement job didn't tighten the fill plug adequately. Oddly, while driving across the country the fill plug popped out about 80 miles from where I live (a guess on the distance). Fluid drained and by the time I rolled into my garage the lack of fluid became noticeable. I have the fill plug on order through the dealership coming Monday and just need a little help on what fluid to buy and how to go about putting the fluid in. I'm not experienced at all with cars. The shop is a few states away and its not worth my time to involve them at this point. Although, I did let them know about the plug and the fact it ran an unknown distance with just the residual fluid in the transmission. I'm hoping no damage occurred. Car does start fine and you can shift through all gears as smoothly as when I bought it in 04, but this was a few days after I discovered all this.

I believe the car sitting allowed the remaining fluid to settle and gave me a window to just turn the car a few times in circles outside the driveway and check the gears.If anybody could link an existing article if you know of one, that would also be great. Thanks. I personally switched mine to synthetic just to help with cold morning gummy gears. It's not like it completely eliminated it but it definitely decreased it, and it takes less time to lose the gumminess after I start driving. The fluid I used is Redline MT-90. It's pretty easy to change (or in your case replace) the MTX fluid if you have some basic tools. Beyond that the only other things you'll need are a funnel a several feet of tubing to reach down to the fill bolt on the front of the transmission. Here's the walkthrough I used to do mine (from another forum). Hope this is useful. Let me know if you find any errors and I'll fix 'er up. My car is a 2006 Mazda3 Sport wagon. I'm assuming the 5-speed tranny is the same on all North American Mazda3's but correct me if I'm wrong. I couldn't find a write-up for this so I thought I'd do it myself. I'm reasonably happy with the shifts on my 3, but I notice some notchiness there at times. I decided to try Redline MT-90. I'm in Southern Ontario, and managed to find Johnston Research and Performance in Mississauga as a retail seller of this oil. It's classified as a GL-4 and matches Mazda's requirement for a 75W90 oil. I'd read many good things about this oil in the past. I can't be held responsible for any blah blah blah. Buy 4 if you're not sure if you can be spill-free. I could see from the factory service manual and other reports that jacking up the car is easier if you drive it onto wooden blocks. I thought this was pretty incovenient, but I found out later that I could have done an oil change with the car just on the blocks.

It’s not like their recommendation is pushing you towards a service that will make the dealers money, It lubricates different parts of the transmission. But like other vital automotive fluids transmission fluid deteriorates with time. Transmission fluid is often red, but comes in other colors also. As it deteriorates, it tends to be turn darker. It also acquires a burned odor sometimes which indicates that it needs to be changed. To change the transmission fluid in your car, you need a certified auto repair shop and for this you may contact:. Pandora charms Silver jewellery Outlet eightieth Off.It is how 50k km and while visit to mazda service center they said at 50k km it is required to change automatic transmission oil change. Please note, they have not even Becky car. Please advice. But as time passes, the transmission fluid becomes dirty, contaminated and worn out. Transmission will not work correctly, and it will breakdown if the fluid is not maintained accurately. Therefore it is needed to change the transmission fluid or perform a transmission flush. To change the transmission fluid in your car,you may refer to:. I’ve replaced the transmission fluid once after 100k km warranty. And I was told no need to replace the transmission fluid. So is it true? Hope this helps everybody. This is the best adsense alternative for any type of website (they approve all sites), for more details simply search in gooogle: murgrabia’s tools But at the same time, their maintenance schedule only goes to 60,000 miles. Is that their “lifetime” Does the car never need servicing again after 60,000 miles. This isnt magical transmission fluid. You know there’s no logistical way it can keep its lubrication and heat protective properties forever. If the customer wants their car to last longer than 100k miles, they are smart to service the transmission every 50,000 miles.

A number of them are rife with spelling problems and I find it very troublesome to inform the truth then again I’ll definitely come again again. All vehicles are subject to prior sale. Prices include all costs to be paid by consumer, except for licensing costs, registration fees, and taxes. Not all offers and rebates can be combined. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. In an automatic transmission, this fluid also serves as a coolant and a viscous fluid that transmits power from the engine to the transmission. Automatic transmissions use something called — shockingly — automatic transmission fluid. Manual transmissions use a variety of oils: regular motor oil, heavyweight hypoid gear oil or even automatic transmission fluid in some cases. Your owner's manual will tell you what your transmission calls for. Under heavy-duty use, some manufacturers suggest changing transmission fluid every 15,000 miles. Changing it more often does no harm. This contamination occurs over time as the synchronizers, bearings and gears in the transmission wear out. The resulting metal particles then float around in the lubricant. And we all know that oil with microscopic particles of metal in it does not lubricate as well as clean oil. So if these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission. If these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission. This will shorten the transmission's life. The result could be a hefty boat payment to your mechanic. In other words, changing your transmission fluid at the correct interval is a good investment. The ring on the right is red to match the automatic transmission fluid, the level of which this dipstick measures.Letting your car run low on transmission fluid can cause the transmission to shift improperly — or not at all. It also can harm the internal parts of your transmission, which will not be properly lubricated.

Click any of the below images for a full size view - images are fairly large I used the centre of the crossmember and put a piece of cardboard between my jack and the car body to prevent scratching. I've had the dealer do the first couple of oil changes and could see from scuff marks from their lift, where I should put the jack stands. After the vehicle was up on the stands, I removed the plastic shield that lies between the road and the engine bay (see any oil change guide on how to do this) I realized I'd be best off with a level surface for the drain and fill, so I lowered the car back onto the planks. My garage is on a slight slope so it was probably level enough at this point. Then I slid my waste pan under the drain hole (look at the top part of the image below, my screwdriver is pointing at it) and opened the bolt to start fluid flowing. Once the fluid had drained out, I replaced the drain plug. If you have an older car you may wish to replace the drain and fill plug gaskets. I've only had my car a few months and decided to skip this step. Now for the interesting part. I would recommend buying a funnel with some 3 feet of tubing - it will make your life easy for the next part. In my case, it was almost a show-stopper until I found some regular copper piping normally used for residential plumbing. I had a funnel and 1 foot of flexible black tubing, but found it was not long enough. What you see in the next two images are the funnel, part of a turkey baster, copper tubing, and then on the underside of the car you can see the copper tubing going into flexible black tubing, finally going into the fill hole. Ghetto for sure, but it worked. Take this step nice and slow, and put a clean container underneath. You'll need this near the end if you overfill, or in case you spill any (or if like me your crappy setup falls out). I found I used about 3.25 quarts, including a couple of spills.

If you don't think you'll spill a drop, you may get away with 3, since the official capacity is 3.03 quarts in my owner's manual. You know it's full when oil comes pouring back out of the tranny. Level with the fill hole counts as full - so if you've overfilled, allow fluid to come back out until it is reduced to the occasional drip, then replace the fill plug. At this point I gently moved the car through all the gears and waited ten minutes for things to settle. After that, it took a little more oil and then I called it a day. I did not have a socket (I used an open-ended wrench) so was unable to torque down the drain and fill plugs accurately. I'll go back and do this later. The torque specs call for 29-43 ft-lbs in the factory service manual. The shifting is noticeably easier, especially in the 1-2 shift which I used to find was quite notchy. To me, this was a worthwhile spend of about 60 dollars Canadian (inc. Learn how to check your own transmission fluid, or feel free to contact our service department if you’re in need of assistance. Our trained technicians will help you keep your vehicle in great working condition. Schedule an appointment today! On front-wheel drive cars, it’s usually located to the right of the oil dipstick. Check your owner’s manual if you’re having trouble finding it. The fluid should be nearly clear, with a pink hue. If it looks dirty or gives off a burnt smell, take it to a service center for replacement. Then insert it back into the vehicle. Pull it out again and check the level. If it’s under the “Full” marking, you’ll need to add more. Be sure not to overfill it. These include your transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and engine oil. Learn more about how to do so with us at Towne Mazda and you can check from the comfort of your home. As always, you can consult your owner’s manual for a more specific maintenance schedule.

Before you check your transmission fluid, explore these tips: Check your owner’s manual to ensure you’re using the right kind for your vehicle. For most drivers, a visit to our service center near Hamburg is more convenient. If you check the levels and they seem fine, this could be a sign of a more serious issue and you’ll want to schedule a service appointment soon. The actual amount depends on your driving habits, type of transmission, and other factors. Check your owner’s manual for a more specific replacement interval. Our Mazda service technicians will help walk you through the process or even check for you when you visit. Contact Towne Mazda to hear about our service specials, learn about the Mazda3 tire sizes, and schedule an appointment. The 2019 Mazda3 gas mileage is hard to beat. No matter which Mazda3 trim level you choose, you can rest assured you’ll be getting great fuel-efficiency around Buffalo.The Mazda compact models, such as the Mazda6 or Mazda3, are currently only offered with front-wheel drive.It has plenty of room for your dog, friends, and all of your gear when on an adventure in the Buffalo area.